One palace, four rooms
The building dates from the 18th century — a former Córdoban palace in the alleyways of the Judería, steps from the Mezquita-Catedral. Inside, four rooms each carry the name of an Italian city and a distinct character.
Capri opens onto a patio planted with lemon trees. Rome runs through a vaulted tunnel lit by candles, designed for intimate dinners. The Tuscany terrace extends things outdoors among potted vines and olive trees. Naples is the loudest room — loud in the best possible way.
The cooking
Pasta is made by hand every day on the premises. Tagliatelle, pappardelle, gnocchi: the shapes change with the season. The pizzas follow Neapolitan proportions — thin dough, pulled from a wood-fired oven.
Ingredients that cannot be sourced locally come from Italy: Puglian burrata, Parma ham, Sardinian pecorino. The rest comes from Andalusian markets — tomatoes from Granada, olive oil from the Córdoba region, fresh herbs. The combination is straightforward and it works.
Signature dishes
The truffle tagliatelle — fresh ribbon pasta tossed in a black truffle and butter sauce, finished with Parmesan — is the dish most tables order twice. The truffle is not background flavour: it comes through clearly against the egg-rich pasta. The burrata arrives whole, cut tableside: a thick cream spills out onto a bed of cherry tomatoes and Sicilian oregano. The tiramisu is made to order and served in a wide glass — espresso-soaked savoiardi, a mascarpone cream that holds its shape, cocoa dusted on top at the moment of serving.
The name
Voltereta means somersault in Spanish. The restaurant takes its name from a true story: a couple who survived a car accident rebuilt their lives around an imagined Tuscan home, sharing meals and memories. Possibly embellished over time, but it suits the atmosphere perfectly.
Hours
Lunch Monday–Friday 12:30–16:00, weekends until 16:30. Dinner Sunday–Thursday from 19:00, Friday–Saturday from 18:00. The Tuscany terrace fills fast on summer evenings — book ahead. For the Rome tunnel room, request it specifically when booking. The location deep in the Judería means the street outside is quieter in the evening once the day-tourists have left, making this a good dinner option after the Mosque crowds have cleared.
